I've found a new favorite weekend escape in Valle de Guadalupe, a small wine region in Baja approximately two hours south of the border. With an attractive landscape of sprawling fields and rolling hills and an outstanding food scene, this part of Mexico is the ultimate destination, especially for those living in southern California. This was my second visit to Valle (read about my first visit HERE) and I left with a longer list of places to check out upon my return- there is a lot to discover here. Although hospitality in the region is a bit backward, the charming wineries and endless selection of restaurants will ensure your quick return. Two nights yields the perfect amount of time needed to explore the region and leave relaxed, refreshed, and extremely well-fed.
There are two ways to cross the border: driving and walking across the pedestrian bridge. Whatever you choose, make sure that you and your entourage have global entry (and sentri for the driver of the car) - on the day we walked back into the USA the regular line spanned multiple streets with a cross time of at least six hours. With Global Entry we zipped right through.
Hiring a driver to meet you at the border and then walking across is my personal preference. It's nice having a local familiar with the area take the helm but mostly you get a designated driver after all that wine tasting! I've hired Luna Travel Chofer twice now, Dani is the best!
Where to Stay:
This is hands down the nicest property in Valle. The grounds are striking, the neutral colors of the structures blend into the natural landscape, and the rooms are large with private patios overlooking the hotel's vineyards. The soothing nature of the property makes it an ideal location for a weekend getaway. We booked the harmony room category; these rooms boast a large heated plunge pool, a private hammock, an outdoor shower, and a breathtaking view. It was hard to peel away each morning.
pros: stunning property, expansive rooms, unique spa treatments, friendly staff
cons: they are still working out kinks and operate on backward, archaic systems that will leave you frustrated often
Upon arrival to Valle our first stop was at Esthela's, well-known by locals who proudly watched her grow from a tiny kitchen into a massive compound. The patrons are mostly Mexicans coming together to eat an authentic Mexican meal. I ate the best chilaquiles I've ever eaten, and those who follow my food journey know that I have eaten many chilaquiles. This will be a staple in our upcoming trips to the area.
pros: laid-back, large portions, dirt cheap (a bill for the four of us including water, a dessert, four dishes, and a Mexican coffee, came out to $42)
cons: the staff doesn't speak english so brush up on your spanish and they don't have a liquor license so don't count on margaritas!
must order: the chilaquiles are otherworldly, ask for a side of their homemade hot sauce
After a full meal, we were ready to sip some locally produced wine. Ok, so the wines in Valle may not be the best but regardless it's fun to do a tasting and get to know the flavors produced in the region. The sommelier was friendly and didn't rush us as we tasted two whites, a rose, and a red wine underneath a gazebo overlooking sprawling vineyards below.
pros: flexible with any combination of wine tastings you'd like, relaxing atmosphere on pretty grounds, knowledgeable staff
cons: no one else was there, a bit quiet
must order: my favorite was their chardonnay and rose
After a relaxing tasting in one vineyard, make your way to another and enjoy some vineyard hopping! We ended up in Mina Penelope's restaurant, not the winery because we did not know that reservations were required (make a note- make reservations in advance!). The restaurant was perfectly acceptable though, you can sip on the wines they produce regardless or opt for a well-crafted cocktail.
pros: nice touches throughout: fresh lavender on the sealed menu, colorful murals, open kitchen
cons: the kitchen only allows you to order a tasting menu, no a la carte options
must order: we didn't eat so I cannot recommend any dishes however my paloma was perfect!
We first dined in Animalon three months ago and were completely blown away by the creativity and mastery of the outstanding dishes whipped up in the open kitchen. When we learned about their recent well-deserved earning of a Michelin star, we rushed back to enjoy another fantastic meal. Everything about this place is magic from dining underneath the massive oak tree to every course that varies in colors, flavors, and textures while continuously keeping you in anticipation of what comes next.
pros: the kitchen is very flexible with dietary restrictions for the tasting menu, visually stunning presentations coupled with exceptional flavors
cons: staff slacked a bit during our second visit, sloppy service since receiving a star
must order: the six-course menu is plenty for you to immerse in a masterful culinary journey
DAY TWO:
A weekend brunch while on vacation is mandatory and visiting this desert-whimsical property is a must when in Valle. Begin your boozy brunch by roaming the grounds to soak in its appeal. Water fountains, tepees, and strategically placed mirrors all add to the allure of the expansive restaurant that immediately enhances your dining experience.
pros: breathtaking grounds, perfect for those IG captures
cons: food just "ok", for this superiorly designed space you'd expect better from the kitchen
must order: the salmon toast
Spa Time at Banyan Tree
After a long, lazy meal, spend the afternoon relaxing at Banyan Tree's spa. The hydro pool room is available for private booking in between treatments for no additional charge; this is a major perk as you get the entire space to yourself to dip between the ice baths, hot baths, and a variety of hydrotherapy pools along with private usage of the steam room and sauna. For our stay, we booked the temazcal ritual ceremony which cleanses the body through volcanic stones that release steam when infused with water. As the heat permeates, the guiding shaman sprinkles a variety of herbs on the rocks to create a sense of calm and relaxation. You'll sweat like crazy while your guide blows a conch shell and thumps on a drum as you transcend into a place of ultimate serenity. It's a surreal experience not to be missed.
pros: private usage of the hydro pool room, incredible temazcal ceremony not commonly offered elsewhere, large couple massage rooms
cons: tiny locker rooms, no note-worthy waiting rooms
This Middle-Eastern restaurant creates a Tuscan vibe, especially during sunset when the sun colors the sky over the rolling grape vines and lavender bushes surrounding the tables. Many enticing shareable dishes comprise the menu, focusing on seasonal vegetables and seafood. The results are delicious.
pros: appealing menu with middle-eastern flair, beautiful ambiance, offer a vegetarian menu
cons: we arrived for our 7:30 pm reservation and were instantly notified that the kitchen was closing at 8:00 pm, on a Saturday night
must order: bluefin raw tuna with rhubarb kimchi and tahini, roasted carrot over duck jus and citrus cream, grilled eggplant with labneh and smoked fish, chocolate pistachio cake
DAY THREE:
Begin your morning walking along the hotel's property following paths that lead you to outlook points and meditative gardens. Stroll through the grounds and shop the well-curated gift shop. Start the day slow and easy and soak in the beauty around you.
Sandra's Restaurant (Puerto Nuevo)
As you head back to the border, stop halfway through in the vibrant town of Puerto Nuevo and stop at Sandra's for one of the best meals you could dream of. There's a reason this restaurant has been an institution for decades, it truly lives up to the hype. Locals line up out the door for a chance to dine at this superb seafood restaurant.
pros: one of your most memorable meals awaits through simple, authentic local preparation of fresh seafood
cons: without a reservation the wait time is excessive
must order: grilled lobster, seafood tacos, and margaritas
I certainly wouldn't mind visiting Valle de Guadalupe every three months. It is such an easy escape from San Diego; just two nights in the region is ample time to rejuvenate in its picturesque setting filled with wonderful restaurants and wineries. If you haven't been yet, add it to your list asap, trust me on this one.